Free Framing Advice for Artists & DIYers

Hi, everyone. Today's post is meant for photographers, artists, or any DIYers (do-it-yourselfers) who do their own "framing." I'm using quotation marks because most folks don't have a mitre saw or pneumatic v-nailer at their house for doing professional framing. Most DIY "framers" buy ready-made frames and install the artwork themselves. If that describes you, you're going to learn a lot in this post! :)

First, inspect the frame. Are the mitres (where the two 45-degree angles meet at all four corners) smooth and tight? If so, great. If not, choose another frame. Warped wood or twisted plastic will only get worse over time, thanks to humidity and temperature fluctuations. It's a natural and normal process--there's no getting around it.

Next, throw away the glass. Yes, I mean that literally. Go straight to your local frame shop (of course you know which shop I recommend) and ask for Conservation glass. I carry three kinds of Conservation glass: clear, non-glare, and Museum grade. My favorite glass is Museum glass, but it's truly a personal choice, since they all have a 99% protective UV coating to help prevent fading.

Personally, I can't stand the look of clear glass due to the glare (I see myself in it, not the art). The non-glare glass is much, much better, but it has a slight "haze" to it, which is especially noticeable when not viewed straight on. When a customer doesn't want to spend extra to have Museum glass, I always recommend non-glare glass (except on shadow boxes), but Museum glass really is the way to go. It's perfectly clear yet glare-free. It's amazing. Read more about Tru-Vue glass here (pdf document).

Now that you have an acceptable frame with UV glass in it, you need acid-free, archival mats. YES, your photo or artwork is worth archival matting. Several times I've seen artwork come in after just a couple of years behind a poor quality mat. It leaves a permanent, orange-brown "burn" because the acid literally migrates out of the mat and into your photo or artwork (called acid migration). Acid burn is preventable (UV glass can help) but not repairable. Don't risk it.

If the frame you bought says the mat is acid free, hopefully it is. I say "hopefully" because Big Box stores have their own definitions of "acid free," "archival," and "conservation quality." My supplies here at the Black Iris Custom Frame Shop are all approved by the Library of Congress in Washington DC, and I have ready-made sizes in a variety of colors for $2-$19, depending on the size you need. My mats come with a guarantee not to damage your artwork.

Okay, with your frame, glass, and matting in hand, we now need to talk about mounting (attaching) the artwork for display. Warning: this paragraph will have a lot of "do NOTs" in it. For instance, do NOT use Scotch tape, masking tape, duct tape, gorilla tape, packing tape, or band-aids to mount your artwork to the backing board (yes, I've seen all of these). Also, do NOT mount the artwork to the back of the mat. Attach it to your backing board. Oh! And let's not forget your backing board. Do NOT use cardboard, masonite, plywood, or whatever came inside your frame; instead use acid-free foamboard or coroplast (available, you guessed it, at any reputable frame shop including Black Iris).

For mounting your artwork, use acid-free artist's tape (it's solid white, not clear or opaque, and removable even years later) or acid-free, clear corner mounts (they look like clear triangles). Either will work for small works of art on paper. For large, heavy, or fabric items, see a professional--framing complicated pieces by yourself could mean you're causing irreversible damage. Again, don't risk it. For steps on how to mount your artwork on paper so that it's straight and lies flat, consider taking my framing class this month (too complicated to explain here).

Next, assemble your frame package starting from the back. Backing board first; frame last. Make sure there are no fingerprints or lint to distract the viewer, then close up the back (see About Dust Covers), and you're done! One last piece of advice--never smash your artwork directly up against the glass. Always use a double mat (or see me for installing spacers). Otherwise, due to humidity and static electricity, the artwork will eventually stick to the glass--not good on valuable pieces! Again, this is preventable, but once the damage is done...it's done.

Finally, you need hanging hardware. If the frame you bought came with a sawtooth hanger at the top or with a wire strung between two eye hooks...well, all I can say is...good luck with that. This kind of DIY hardware is not professional grade and often pulls out due to vibrations of outside (road) traffic, inside (foot) traffic, doors opening and closing, appliances, etc. With low quality hanging hardware, one day your frame will end up on the floor, broken. You'll need the frame repaired and the glass replaced for sure--which is far more expensive than coming to see me about good, solid hardware before you hang it.

Now hang your beautiful artwork (use two hangers to keep it level), and enjoy.

Let me know if you ever have questions about framing, and good luck DIYers! My next mat cutting class starts Thursday, August 7. Framing class starts August 21. See you there!

Framing for a Lifetime,
JoAnn

About Dust Covers

Hi, everyone!

A friend reminded me that I promised to talk about the need for a dust cover on the back of a finished frame. You won't believe how important they are!

The first time I had a frame come in for repair without a dust cover, I was stunned by what I saw. I said nothing to the customer about it and promised her I could repair the frame (it had fallen off her wall) and replace the glass for her, no problem. Much of my time would be spent cleaning the inside of her frame.

Here's what I found in there: Lots of gritty, sandy dirt (so much so that I literally poured it out). Several dead insects (and one still living). Larvae of still more insects. Dust bunnies (and, I can only assume, dust mites, too). Glass shards (from the impact of the fall). Many rusty brad nails (used to hold the art and backing board in place, which is considered a "no-no" in framing today because--you guessed it--they rust!).

All of this mess would have been prevented had the original framer installed a dust cover on the back of the framing package. This frame was so dirty (it was most likely stored in an attic or a garage--so don't do that!), that the insects and dirt had even found their way to the front of the matting, which, after time, permanently stained the mat. The customer had to replace not only the broken glass but the stained mats and backing board as well, thanks--again--to no dust cover.

If you don't get a dust cover on your framing order, ask for it. Dust covers usually come in brown, black, white, or light blue "kraft" or Tyvek paper, and they are part of a professional frame shop's responsibility to you as their customer. Because I believe in Framing for a Lifetime (my shop slogan), a dust cover comes free on all framing orders here at the Black Iris Custom Frame Shop.

Hope to see you soon!
JoAnn

<-- Here's what happens when you don't have a dust cover!